The 15th LFW started with high on energy and style. Here is what went down on day 1.
Gen Next Designers
His collection was called “Consonance and Dissonance” and with his colourful and kitsch garments, he showed his version of the 21st century male. With black and white and loads of kaleidoscopic patterns, which were unbelievably intricate and geometric with florals, birds and beasts. He unleashed a colour story of lotus pink, cranberry, parrot green with hints of bright red. Khaki and dark tones of chestnut added to the wild colour story.Using 100 per cent cotton, linen and silk with digital prints, Ajay had Indo-Persian silhouettes that featured Angarkha jacket, draped cowl printed shirt, kilt trousers, interesting back over lap trousers, long kurta, and embroidered the bib shirt with jewelled crystal beads.
It was a zesty fun playful men’s and women’s wear line that bordered on androgynous touches. It moved effortlessly between both genders with silhouettes and styles ideal for casual wear. Called “Elakka Ice”, he moved away from conventional winter hues and onto blue, green and gold with distinct banana leaf prints and floral hand embroidery. Playing with fabrics like men’s suiting material, poplin, cotton mesh, organza and leatherite, Charchit brought in silhouettes that were easy on the eye and body. Simple cuts were visible in the straight fitted trousers, short button less jackets and long deconstructed trench coats.
Her collection was inspired by evolution of basics and called “Purge” so she recreated the white shirt and draped scarves for the fashion conscious. Adding patch work, knitting back fabric strips from production waste and block printing; Kriti displayed slouchy silhouettes with discreet detailing. The shapes bordered almost on the androgynous level with the tunics aimed at the versatile dresser – easy silhouettes that can fit any shape or size. White shirts were teamed with striped jacket and cuffed pants. Patchwork looked great on fitted coats, while a grey jumpsuit with a woven coat, patched waistcoat and the knitted cover with printed pants and shirt had an effortless appeal for a nippier weather.
The designed pieces were feminine with a hint of caprice by adding fusion prints in bold colours of red, blue, black on a white backdrop in 90 percent cotton and 10 percent Lycra. Sexy and stretchable, the very striking prints and form fitting silhouettes made an impact on the ramp. The long sleeved cropped top with an abstract print was teamed with a printed pencil skirt, while the long sleeved maxis with varying abstract prints on a white background were ideal for cooler climes.
She presented “Misprison of Treason” under her label ‘Quo’. She gave an unconventional twist for women’s wear with dramatic prints, slogans and accessories; for the modern adventurous woman. Using solid rich woody hues, the silhouettes moved from stiff collars to pleated silk backs, cut-outs, crêpe skirts teamed with pleated leather trousers and long trench coats. Making a style statement, Ishita added bold prints, catchy slogans and basic shapes with rigid belts.
She deconstructed elegance with a boho-luxe feel. With easy silhouettes as the center of attraction, she brought in luxurious fabrics with thread embroidery and suede detailing to highlight the creations. The prime colours were navy blue and mustard with hints of burnt orange and earthy tones to complete the effect. Tassels and fringes were the focal point as they were added to everything – from palazzos to woolen coats. From stylish coat dresses to languid palazzos and relaxed tops; the range was replete with sharp tailoring that offered clothes for the free spirited woman.
His collection “Story Teller” revealed an elegant feminine fashionable tale on the ramp. Revolving around the story of the mythological divine bovine goddess, Kamadhenu, described as mother of all cows, the designer was inspired by the gates and doors of Indian vintage Havelis. But while the inspiration was historic,the shapes were ultra-modern and ideal for the fashion forward 21st century woman. The quirky cow and milk bottle prints were matched with embroidery in vibrant colours. With sporty bomber jackets, tank tops, track pants, sweat shirts, minis, cropped jackets, full circle skirts, oversized jackets and figure hugging peplum dresses, he added a profusion of prints-on-prints, layering and quirky accessories like sneakers, back packs, clutches, and contrasted them with Indian traditional jewellery. Here was a mixture of cultures, crafts, colours and traditions that came seamlessly together in one great collection.
Kristy De Cunha
Her avant garde designs emerged as a style statement for every woman. The silhouettes are structured yet whimsical in a pompous fashion. The bold and edgy hand crafted digital prints characterized the boisterous woman inside, while the unconventional cuts were amalgamated with vintage silhouettes encompassing dresses, skirts, shorts, blazers and capes. The designer played with eccentric hues of midnight blue, amber, ivory, cherry, aqua, lime and crimson, meshed together and created a ravishing assortment of garments.
She went Green with her collection named “Shakti” deriving its roots from Mother Nature, which celebrated the grace of free spiritedness and strength within oneself. Simrat showcased an ethnic array of garments with wisps of bohemia, strength of structure and lightness of being. Her bespoke collection, regal in form, emerged as liberated, yet rooted deep within the seekers of the unconventional.
Revealing her distinct style with fluid silhouettes, Salita Nanda’s breathtaking collection comprised sheer cropped tops with skirts and capes, rolling into abstract prints in sequins, pausing at bold monochrome striped blazers and capes, finishing up with light coloured flowers adhered to flowing silhouettes. The one garment that stood out was a sheer double layered cropped top with a calf length pencil skirt fastened with powder coloured flowers. Functional in form and uber in fashion, Salita Nanda’s ‘Youthquake’; soft and stylish ready-to-wear collection left one spellbound.
His collection ‘Alchemy’ was diplayed luxurious Dupion and pure silk, linen, cotton as well as polyester blends, the designer added his distinctive touches to offer bridal wear innovations. While the embellishments were basic and traditional, so were the colours, which ranged from white, gold to mango, vermillion and nude, it was the construction that was eye-catching.The saris, anarkalis, kurtas and salwars had a nouveau image. Blouses disappeared from saris but were replaced by metallics or draped dupattas that turned into neck ornaments.White linen played a melody with flowing tulle over halter sheaths or as churidars with slit sleeved pencil kurta and sheath with attached flow of net.
For her collection “Maaya”, the motifs seen on the first pieces of gold jewellery excavated from ancient Egypt, Rome and India, were beautifully transformed into zardosi, Mukaish and appliqués; while the fabrics chosen for this stunning collection matched the intricate embellishments. Rich silks, tulle and mul were showcased in earthy colours that moved from natural stone, to pretty pale rose, stately grey, elegant cream and finally dramatic black. Highlights of the show were the embroidered low crotch dhoti pants, stone silk raised hem kurta, silk organza kaftans, tunics, black fish scale Patiala and the navy embroidered Afghani salwar with ornate kurta. Jackets and lehenga were dazzling with gorgeous work while the Banaras palazzos and Mukaish tulle dupatta added to the dazzle. The three sari entries in dual tones had simple embellished cholis.
Presenting a beautifully crafted couture collection, she displayed hand woven tanchois, jangla and Jamawar silks. She further added her trade mark Shibori, tie-n-dye techniques and then splashed the fabrics with gotta and zari work. Shades of vibrant pink, yellow and soft green came together with pastel tones. Gotta and zardozi added a refreshing touch. 3D flowers, hand painted panels and detailed tassels were a great addition. Krishna’s silhouettes were a contemporary ode to traditional shapes. Intricate pleating and patchwork gave lehengas and draped saris a New Age Aura. Pants were teamed with overlapping peplum blouses and jackets to create a comprehensive festive offering. A mix of drop crotch pants, draped dhoti salwars, cowl pants with kurta or mini kurtis were a colourful option.
His ethereal collection was crafted in the most exquisite fabrics. Khadi appeared in various forms – silk, zari and Jamdani. Paying creative homage to the colour red, Soumitra ensured it was the prime hue in his collection. But he added a few contrasts with violet, orange, pink and gold to ensure a stylish balance.Embroidery was the highlight of this festive collection and added that distinct elegance and regal vibe. Opening the show with an all-black collection of long sleeved gowns, kurtas, sari and sherwani with churidars; Soumitra, moved to hot colours like red, orange, shades of fuchsia and gold. Splashing the saris with intricate floral embroidery, the creations remained simple in silhouettes and construction.