70s inspired cuts, all over prints and low-key pantone shades seem to define these Pre-Fall collections. Below is the deconstruction of what caught our fancy, this season.
Akris: Understated, angular and streamlined best describe the collection. But breaking this straightforward-ness were floral prints in jeweled purple, black and bronze.
Balmain: It was a radical shift from their ultra- embellished style as the label tailored velvet and printed fabric into high-waist ruffled skirts and fluid palazzos.
Calvin Klein Collection: It was a showcase sans pretensions. Having a sense of intimacy, the pieces felt like residents of a chic girl’s closet rather than backstage roll-outs.
Carven: Stripes on stripes, boxy tailoring, and an off palette– Guillaume Henry’s collection with its demure aftertaste is well suited for the upcoming somber season of Fall.
Chanel: The collection was a glazed re-imagination of the Austrian aesthetic as models walked through rococo salons lit by candles in capelets, frogged jackets, and side-striped trousers.
Chloé: One could only think of free-spirited romanticism typical to artists, seeing this collection. On display were poet-sleeved blouses, cape-like coats and super-flared trousers – all exuding the androgynous vibe.
Christian Dior: Inspired by Tokyo’s cityscape and having a futuresque design take, Simons collection saw waxed cotton coats nipped at the waist, rubberized floral jacquard and washed leather pieces replete with functional patch pockets and heavy-duty zippers.
Elie Saab: He showcased evening wear with a folksy feeling by making abundant use of fur and harvest-inspired motifs. The palette stayed limited to black and purple with abstract floral brocade.
Emanuel Ungaro: We loved his tacking of high-contrast textures like leather with fox fur and metal accents and the counterbalance of structure, pairing sporty separates (with varsity jackets and sweatshirts) with neat knee-grazing skirts.
Fendi: On focus were multi-coloured stripes in all dimensions worked through relaxed silhouettes.
Giorgio Armani: He re-works the pantsuit…once again. This time with unconventional shapes, asymmetrical skirts over slim trousers and perfectly tailored high waist pants.
Gucci: Luxurious but restrained leather and suede coats, unlined and unstructured daywear dresses were the must-owns from this 70s-inspired collection.
Jason Wu: Single colour canvasses and a no-nonsense vibe dictated Dan Flavin’s work. Each silhouette was infused with simple sophistication, a deep emerald sheath in plonge leather, with a wraparound bodice and a deep front slit being the epitome of this stark sensibility.
J. W. Anderson: You couldn’t pin his inspiration to particular fashion era with elements being picked from various decades. On display was eclecticism in its best element with velvet-cuffed corduroy pants, a felted miniskirt and a Superfly bomber in Mohair.
Lanvin: The message was clear: Mix. Don’t match! Think casual injected with glam as the collection paired separates like a pink fox-fur jacket with a black feather-strewn T-shirt, and a long wrap skirt in a gray tone leopard print.
Louis Vuitton: Ghesquière worked with lean, 1970s inspired silhouettes tailored using denim, leather, and tweed. Bomber jackets, jersey dresses, and oversized coats were the standout pieces, this time.
Mary Katrantzou: It was a line-up of practical pieces with traditional paisley patterns, beige and washed out blue with black highlights, and city-friendly silhouettes.
Matthew Williamson: On the fore were evening wear pieces inspired by Morocco – colours weathered by the sun, bohemian craftsmanship, and architectural motifs from the country.
Narciso Rodriquez: It was all about reversible staples – a gray sheath dress flipped into sunshine yellow and white one, while the slit in an A-line green skirt hinted at an alternate graphic look. Clever pieces that switch from day to night, with great ease, stole the show.
Oscar de la Renta: The collection was an ode to the house’s founder, romantic evening dresses in tulle meticulously embroidered with threadwork and sequins. Balancing these nostalgic designs were urban separates like wide cropped pants, fluted jackets, skirts cut on the bias, and metallic loafers.
Roksanda: The pieces were a heads-up look into the future with colour blocking in fluoro-like pastels and synthetic fabrics like Perspex and laser-cut plongé leather matched with silk and organza.
Stella McCartney: Spotting elegant sportswear for the ladies, the runway saw mid-calf skirts, knit-on-knit dresses, turtlenecks and kick-flares. But the must-have wardrobe additions for the season were her monkstrap flatforms, a clever reworking of the famous Elyse shoes.
Thakoon: A big check against the requisites of boho undone with tilework-inspired motifs worked into wool jacquard, fleece-like layering and grounded pantone shades (for us, reminiscent of fiery redwood and a clouded horizon)
The Row: We loved the new high-waist, ankle length trouser introduced in this collection. Bringing in variation, the silhouette was tweaked into a 70s-like flare or cut slim to the leg.
Valentino: The collection was reminiscent of the 60s and 70s with its long-sleeved dress, knee-length boots and floral micro prints.
